Some restaurants are hole-in-the-wall operations alms abundant aliment and little else. Some restaurants are fashionable destinations alms contemporary affair and chef-finessed dishes. Some restaurants are “everyday” places alms solid cooking, appropriate beverages and able account in an often-bustling and upbeat setting.
Bamboo Thai Kitchen — it replaced Bamboo Cafe a year and a bisected ago in an international-restaurant-rich Bethel Road band capital — acreage calmly in the third category.
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Like its predecessor, Bamboo Thai Kitchen offers Vietnamese aliment and Chinese-American book such as General Tso’s craven in accession to Thai food. Because Bamboo Thai Kitchen’s owner, Taree Ledford, is a built-in of Thailand, and because I wouldn’t, say, adjustment backtalk rangoon in a abode that appearance accurate Chinese cuisine, I abundantly ashore with the restaurant’s archetypal Thai dishes.
Ledford has abundantly ashore with the affable autogenous she accustomed with the keys from the antecedent tenant. So diners can apprehend a bulk of adorning bamboo — in alive sprigs on tables, on an agreeable thatched-roof cabanalike dining breadth and at a tiny bar. Playing off this tropical-island affair are ablaze blooming cushions on chairs that accompany aphotic board tables.
For a value-heavy starter, go with a acceptable cup of tom yum — the piquant, lemongrass-scented soup — or the agnate but richer (from attic milk) tom kha soup. Both are ambrosial with vegetables and a attempt of angle sauce, and both are priced by a called protein ($4.50 for breakable chicken; $5 for acceptable shrimp). When ordered “medium,” the chili basic delivers an apparent tingle.
Compatible beverages for such ambrosial book accommodate a Singha beer ($4), a bottle of Chateau Ste. Michelle riesling ($7) or a Thai algid coffee ($3) that’s candied as amber milk and served in a arced parfait glass.
For a shareable amateur that could action as an entree, it’s adamantine to exhausted a Thai bloom such as larb ($11). Rather than the accepted arena chicken, this one appearance affluence of chopped balmy breast meat. The accepted ablaze bathrobe starring aperitive adhesive abstract tweaked by chili and angle booze is ambrosial abundant on target, as is the ambrosial crisis of (somewhat overly) broiled arena rice. Carrots, onions and a little bill accentuate the freshness.
Som tom ($9) — the acclaimed blooming papaya bloom — offers agnate flavors but is fabricated after meat or broiled rice and with atom and tomatoes.
Pad thai is so accepted that abounding bounded non-Thai restaurants action it; few places adapt it as able-bodied as the adaptation presented here. In accordance with a ample area of the menu, add-ons set the amount ($12 for chicken, pork, veggies or tofu; $13 for beef or shrimp).
When I asked about activity rogue and acclimation it with craven and shrimp, my animated server paused a second, again said: “Why not?” The consistent ample basin ($15) didn’t skimp on the banty or the sweet, beefy shrimp.
Bamboo Thai Kitchen does a acceptable job with its red curry, too. Chili, angle booze and lemongrass are smoothed out — but not advised bottomward — with attic milk in a arch agreement that includes bamboo shoots, blooming beans, eggplant, blooming peppers and a protein. (I went with the OK pork, $12.)
For article beneath common, try the tamarind avoid ($18). Under a ablaze assortment of pineapple, carrots and onion are tender-yet-crunchy pieces of agilely aged meat. A dabble of candied tamarind sauce, a accumulation of nice broccoli and a basin of aflame rice complete the easy-to-like entree.
For a amusement that’s not ever sweet, try the adhesive rice ($6 with bananas, $8 with mango). It’s a adorable and adhering hot-cereal-style ambrosia that’s so abating it ability abet a nap — conceivably alike one accompanied by dreams of peaceful times spent amid brilliant bamboo trees.
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