10 Things You Probably Didn't Know About Commercial Restaurant Kitchen Mats | Commercial Restaurant Kitchen Mats

It's Diner week, the advancing roll-out of our anniversary restaurant guide. We kicked things off aftermost anniversary with Higgins at 20, our contour of the battleground burghal restaurant as it enters its third decade. Today you'll acquisition our adviser to the city's best new restaurants and, below, The Oregonian's 2014 Restaurant of the Year.

One contempo Tuesday, chef Rassamee Ruaysuntia slices ginger, lotus basis and galangal, the aroma of absurd shallots and catfish boring bushing the air. Ruaysuntia and Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom are prepping for the latest copy of Langbaan, a Aristocratic Thai banquet alternation captivated abaft a ambush bookshelf at the aback of Ninsom's lively, adroit Thai restaurant, PaaDee.

Later that week, Will Preisch and Joel Stocks -- two adolescent chefs assertive to become Portland's abutting comestible stars -- present 10 adroit courses with wine pairings to about a dozen diners in a bartering kitchen downtown. This is Holdfast Dining, Preisch and Stocks' underground restaurant. Tickets for the alternating banquet series, arise already a month, sometimes advertise out in minutes.

In 2014, aliment admirers attractive for the abutting big affair in Portland dining accept activate it at adroit back-room supper clubs, underground pop-ups, bottomward ancillary alleys and in warehouses, on close-in farms and the closer-in active accommodation of bounded band cooks. Anywhere, in short, but acceptable restaurant dining rooms. In a year with no accurate blemish restaurant, comestible affairs such as Langbaan and Holdfast, and a dozen others besides, accept pushed Portland's aliment boundaries added than annihilation else.

For giving us Langbaan's active mollusk and mollusk curry; Holdfast Dining's airy cornbread madeleine crowned by a aboveboard of adorable honeycomb; and abounding added absurd bites served in the best abnormal places, Portland's pop-up dining arena is, collectively, The Oregonian's 2014 Restaurant of the Year.

Family Supper

In March 2001, chef Naomi Pomeroy and Michael Hebb arrive friends, artists and artisans to their home for a multi-course meal that concluded with Hebb casual the hat, allurement for $5 donations. The banquet series, dubbed "Family Supper," eventually birthed Ripe, the accursed restaurant accumulation that would eventually accept its acceleration and abatement actual in The Oregonian, Aliment & Wine and The New York Times.

Before its wax wings melted, Ancestors Supper was seductive, semi-legal and the distinct hottest admission in Portland. Through the restaurants it spawned -- a anchored Ancestors Supper location, Clarklewis, Gotham Building Tavern -- Ripe alien the burghal to chefs including Gabriel Rucker (Le Pigeon), Erik Van Kley (Little Bird), Jason Barwikowski (formerly of Clyde Common, Olympic Provisions, the Woodsman Tavern), Tommy Habetz (Bunk Sandwiches), Troy MacLarty (Bollywood Theater) and Pomeroy herself, who went on to accessible Beast, a brick-and-mortar restaurant with a supper-club vibe.

Across town, Simpatica Dining Hall's John Gorham, Ben Dyer and Jason Owens started staging pop-ups of their own. One of those, a tapas night, accepted so acknowledged that Gorham angry it into as a Spanish restaurant all its own. Toro Bravo was born, in about-face breeding Tasty N Sons and Tasty N Alder, the accepted breakfast spots. Anon after, Dyer and Owens teamed with David Kreifels to accessible Laurelhurst Market, the second-wave steakhouse. If you're befitting clue at home, that agency Portland's aboriginal annular of pop-ups led, anon or indirectly, to at atomic a dozen of the city's best restaurants.

After the mid-2000s, Portland's supper club arena aloof from the limelight, but never absolutely disappeared. Meanwhile, in burghal centers beyond the country, the pop-up was alpha to aces up steam. Ludo Lefebvre, the French chef and TV personality, launched his ambulant LudoBites banquet alternation in 2007. Pop-ups such as New York's Frej and San Francisco's Mission Street Aliment aggregate fans, again spawned important restaurants of their own (Aska and Mission Chinese Food, respectively).

You can date Portland's accepted pop-up improvement to about absolutely a year ago today, aloof afterwards chef Will Preisch alternate from a "finishing school" bout of European kitchens and launched Holdfast Dining, the best talked-about and emulated of the contempo crop of pop-ups. Over the accomplished six months, the pop-up crawl grew into a flood, with new underground restaurants and supper clubs kickstarting about every week. Not all are great, but anniversary has the aforementioned goal: to accompany article new and agitative to a hyper-educated aliment burghal with a acutely bottomless ache for new flavors and cuisines.

"I anticipate it's so cool," Pomeroy says now. "If you attending aback to how I started, added cogent than accouterment was the abstraction of putting a big table through my active room."

Pomeroy thinks the accepted pop-up movement is actuality apprenticed in allotment by a abridgement of opportunity.

"One of the things that makes Portland restaurants so acknowledged is that a lot of them are chef-owned. That's great, because it agency what's active the restaurants in Portland is the food. But it makes it adamantine for cooks to move up through a alternation and become chefs or owners themselves. A lot of pop-ups are actuality run by bodies who accept catholic around, acquired acquaintance and now appetite to alarm themselves 'chef.'"

Portland's pop-ups accept angry the burghal into the Noah's Ark of fascinating, abnormal cuisines, abounding of which are absent from cities alert our size. Today, adventuresome diners can acquisition two regionally absolute Indian pop-ups (Thali Supper Club and Pondicherry); a brace of seasonally attuned, prix fixe Japanese dinners (Nodoguro and Ippai); and a brace of multi-course ambrosia flights (Morgan St. Theater and Flight Ambrosia Bar).

If there's an abnormal basin you've been appetite in Portland, affairs are it will anon arise at a pop-up abreast you. You'll acquisition Shanghai soup dumplings address of Aviary co-owner Jasper Shen's Chinese aliment pop-up; agreeable potato blini at Vitaly Paley's account Russian pop-up, DaNet, captivated at his own Portland Penny Diner; and asparagus-morel pizzas, soda bubbler affair and old-school hip-hop at Ned Ludd's Monday pizza pop-up, P.R.E.A.M., aggressive in allotment by the rap accumulation Wu-Tang Clan.

Pop-uplandia

KitchenCru, area Holdfast's dinners accept been captivated aback June of aftermost year, doesn't attending abundant like a restaurant.

That's because it isn't.

The automated Northwest Broadway amplitude is absolutely a bartering kitchen, a licensed, absolutely abounding assembly ability area artisans, aliment barrow owners and active restaurants with undersized kitchens can basic food. It's additionally area Preisch, agile and energetic, his once James Harden-worthy bristles now tamed, welcomes about a dozen diners anniversary Friday, Saturday and Sunday, continuing afore rows of stainless-steel hoods, able stoves and racks abounding with pots and pans. Addition accumulation blockage backward to use the amplitude can be heard talking in the aback room. A begrimed aroma lingers in the allowance from the brace bottling barbecue booze off to the side.

Before anniversary meal, Preisch and Holdfast co-chef Joel Stocks explain how their pop-up works. How to get to the bath (follow the bank at left). Who picks the wine pairings (Dan Beekley of the adjoining CorksCru). What do you do with your apparatus amid courses (save it). Expectant diners angular on their amber covering abode mats, cat-and-mouse for the palate-cleansing aboriginal course, diver scallops abeyant in acerb angel gelee. Built to Spill plays overhead.

Just afore his European affable trip, Preisch, who has best afresh acclimatized at the Angled Brick, lent a duke to Jeff McCarthy at Tentop, an aboriginal KitchenCru banquet alternation and forerunner to the accepted pop-up boom. That dinner, and addition acclimatized with Stocks, lingered in Preisch's apperception as he toured Europe, alive contributed at beat kitchens in Denmark and Iceland. In his off time, he advised the beginning American pop-up trend from afar, acquirements that best ample American cities accept at atomic one.

"Quite a few accept been bankrupt by the bloom deapartment," Preisch says, "and some of these are restaurants on Yelp. Which is amusing to me."

Preisch took a abutting attending at Wolvesmouth, the super-exclusive Los Angeles pop-up captivated at the accommodation of above Portland baker Craig Thornton (Serratto), area anniversary night's bedfellow account is whittled bottomward with an eye for "occupational balance" from hundreds of applicants.

"I anticipation about accomplishing them out of my home, but I accept a cat, so that didn't assume kosher," Preisch says.

Preisch and Stocks' dishes, planned and accomplished together, accept a modernist bent, but their hallmarks are abnormal flavors and beauteous presentations. One month, begrimed sturgeon, brittle sunchokes and atramentous olive will sit in a advanced white basin abutting to a ablution of blithely blooming amber cream. The next, clear-cut atom prawn cape are served with a atramentous garlic block beside the shrimp's deep-fried head. It's all conspicuously Instagrammable.

Centuries-old inspiration

Langbaan was born, Ninsom explains, afterwards a chef acquaintance asked if PaaDee ability whip up article appropriate for his birthday. Ninsom was accustomed with Nahm, the acclaimed Bangkok restaurant area Australian chef David Thompson mines centuries-old Thai cookbooks for ideas, and he knew that Ruaysuntia, who confused to the Thai city at 18, had formed there. The altogether banquet angry into a alternation of friends-and-family pop-ups and, afterwards admiring Roe, the accomplished seafood restaurant tucked abaft Southeast Division Street seafood atom Block Tackle, Ninsom acclimatized a little-used aback allowance abaft PaaDee into a small, abstracted restaurant space.

Related: At Portland's Langbaan, a buried Thai tasting card earns its stars

Meals at Langbaan are a aggregate of aristocratic Thai dishes, bounded specialties and centuries-old recipes adopted from Nahm. Abreast the end of a contempo 12-course meal, Ruaysuntia easily a vibrant, turmeric-yellow back-scratch beyond the chef's counter. The recipe, we were told, includes clams and mussels pond in attic milk, and was acclimatized from a 200-year-old cookbook -- "Recipes From Princess Yaowapha Bongsanid," Ninsom translated in a afterwards email -- that Ruaysuntia brought with her from Thailand. As a finishing touch, Langbaan spikes the basin with a hasty agenda of jackfruit. Despite active in Thai-food-mad Portland, this was one of the best intense, flavor-packed curries I've anytime eaten.

Today, back Langbaan is idle, Ninsom lends the back-of-house amplitude to chefs planning pop-ups, acquisitive their abilities will rub off on his staff. Recently, a adolescent brace from Le Pigeon, band baker Andrew Evan Mace and pastry chef Nora Antene, took over the Langbaan space, confined a multi-course meal with a alternation of abnormal elements, including hibiscus-rolled avocado balls, oyster-infused creme fraiche and a borsch of Douglas Fir all-overs foraged from a adjacent park. Leaving Langbaan and casual through a ample PaaDee afterwards account over a quartet of Antene's desserts, I activate my Twitter augment ample in photos from chef Jane Hashimawari's Ippai pop-up, accident at that actual burning at Roe.

In the age of the pop-up, it's accessible to ambition you were in two places at once.

The restaurant is dead. Long alive the restaurant.

Preisch, who prefers to alarm Holdfast an "underground restaurant" today, says he has announced with chefs planning pop-ups in Portland and Seattle. Some accept inquired about application the KitchenCru space.

"But I already accept all the acceptable days," he tells them.

Earlier this month, Michael Madigan, whose KitchenCru helped advance the trend, asked whether chefs are now aloof co-opting the appellation "to assume hip."

"If it happens already a ages in the chef's own restaurant," Madigan wrote on Twitter, is that a pop-up "or is that aloof a card special?"

It's too aboriginal to acquaint whether the accepted chic of pop-ups will bearing the abutting abundant annular of Portland restaurants. Langbaan has already advance its wings. Project Grace, an Italian banquet alternation that took over Hokusei sushi to serve meatballs and spaghetti from a kitchen about adherent to tempura and miso-glazed atramentous cod, was consistently advised to draw absorption to Renata, a well-funded Italian restaurant advancing to Southeast Portland. The pop-up is currently on break. Coquine, chef Katy Millard's farm-focused pop-ups, additionally on hiatus, are planning a brick-and-mortar. And it's accessible to brainstorm P.R.E.A.M.'s pizza, Aviary's dumplings or Paley's blini confined as the covering pole for baby restaurants of their own.

As for Holdfast, Preisch seems agreeable for now. There could be article bigger and bolder in his and Stocks' future, but whatever that is, he's abiding it won't attending like a acceptable restaurant. Right now, he loves the abandon and adaptability offered by Holdfast's average status, its chrysalis stage: allotment abiding pop-up, allotment more above-ground supper club.

They're alike on Yelp.

-- Michael Russell

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